Jon Thompson
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Death of the American Restaurant?

1/14/2026

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I recently went to Lily's, a neighborhood restaurant in Raleigh, famed for its pizzas. It was on a Thursday night. I was shocked to see that all the tables were completely empty. Not a soul in the place. It was open--but it was operating to service take-out orders, just like in the bad old days. Before Covid, the joint was always full--bursting with patrons and the hubbub of conversation and of course thumping loud music. You had to weave in and the crowds to fetch your own cutlery. It appears that many have lost the habit, the appetite, for eating out. Some of this can be put down to financial belt-tightening but not, I think, all of it. It looks to me like the tendency in American culture to center everything--eating, socializing, working, entertainment-- in the home is taking another prisoner. Cinemas in the U.S. are languishing too--barely holding on with reduced attendance. Most new films can be seen at home immediately on platforms like Netflix or shortly after opening. To me, it feels like there's a greater and greater contraction of social space in the U.S. since Covid. Less places to see others, to come into contact with others, less opportunity for spontaneous interaction. I hope I'm wrong. If I'm not, the epidemic of loneliness and isolation in this country will only become more severe...
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